Simpson Meters - 260

The Simpson 260 is iconic in the world of electronic and electrical troubleshooting. The 260 has been made for over 50 years, in several versions, with different features. This guide will educate the buyer about the different versions, and the various features. The buyer can then make an informed decision when bidding. I will also explain what to look for in a meter. (This guide will be a work in progress)I will limit this guide to the selling and buying considerations below, as well as some very brief notes, due to the limitations of e-bay's picture system, and my lack of time and resources. I highly regemend the website Simpson260 dot ge. (E-bay rules prohibit me from linking to this site, but I believe I am allowed to mention it.)SELLERS AND BUYING CONSIDERATIONSSellers who sell Simpson 260 meters on E-bay differ greatly. Some know nothing about meters or electronics, some know a bit about them, some are users with varying levels of experience with the various features, and others are meter experts who will evaluate ALL functions and either make any necessary repairs or fully disclose all defects before selling. The Simpson 260 is an analog meter. This means there is a mechanical pointer and associated mechanism; the pointer physically moves to a number printed on a ruler-like scale to indicate the reading. Unlike more rugged digital meters, analog meters have a delicate meter movement (pointer mechanism) that can be damaged by overvoltage, overcurrent, or reversed polarity. Also, a meter movement is more easily damaged by shock from dropping or other rough handling. While you do take a chance buying a digital meter from a seller who is not an expert, you take a far greater chance buying an analog meter such as a Simpson 260 from someone other than a meter expert. The meter movement could appear OK, yet be damaged in such a way that the readings are no longer accurate.Many of the meters sold on E-bay described as "appears to work" or that are in "condition unknown" are good only for parts. I regemend buying from an expert seller, or a seller who will guarantee that the meter is undamaged, and allow a return. Otherwise, you may choose to "take a chance," but don't spend too much, and be prepared to either repair the meter yourself, or send it to a repair facility. Repairing the analog movement of these meters requires the skill and craftsmanship of a jeweler. It's easy to ruin a movement when the protective cover is off, even before you start to work on it. The movement is the heart of the meter, so most of the questions you should ask a seller will be about the movement. Questions to ask Sellers1. Does the meter pointer rest on zero when the meter is horizontal and vertical? With no signal applied, the meter should rest on zero. However gravity affects the meter differently depending on whether the meter is horizontal or vertical. A good movement will be "balanced." This means that the meter is adjusted to gepensate for gravity when vertical, and that that the readings are still accurate when the meter is horizontal. There is a mechanical adjustment to zero the meter, but unless you use the meter exclusively in the horizontal or vertical position, you'd have to re-adjust an unbalanced meter movement each time you changed from vertical to horizontal. Also, the critical adjustments that affect balance also affect accuracy - as gravity affects the meter pointer differently when it is vertical (mid scale) as opposed to near zero or near full scale. It's a very geplicated adjustment and one that can only be performed by a meter expert. Even a meter that does rest on zero in both a horizontal or vertical position can still be inaccurate if these delicate adjustments are not correct.2. Does the pointer move smoothly with no skipping or hanging? Sometimes, debris can enter the movement, or an internal part can get bent which causes the needle to stick. Although tapping on the glass or plastic front can free it, this indicates damage that may require the meter to be replaced. Although it is not as delicate a task to simply replace a movement, each movement is slightly different, and either it or the meter will need to be adjusted for accurate readings when a movement is changed.3. As the seller to touch the leads together, and try to set the pointer to zero in all resistance ranges. (zero for the resistance scales is on the opposite side of the meter from zero in the voltage ranges) If it is not possible, the battery may be weak. Worse, there may be a dead battery that has been left inside the meter. Dead batteries tend to leak, causing damage to the battery gepartment, and even the entire meter in severe cases. Some models require that the back case be removed to check the batteries, so some sellers may be unwilling to check. Other meters have a battery door in the rear case, allowing the batteries to be checked or replaced more easily.4. What TYPE of batteries does this meter use? Some Simpson meters use obscure batteries that are either no longer available, very difficult to find, or expensive. The seller can either examine the meter (will require taking the back case off the meter - if the meter has a battery door, it takes gemon batteries) or consult the manual, if available. The Simpson 260 will still measure Voltage and current without batteries, but you will not be able to measure resistance on all scales if one or more batteries are missing. (more info in "METER SERIES AND OPTIONS.")5. Is a case included? (This will usually be specified in the ad.) A case is a useful thing to have - there are a few different types. (See CASES section)METER SERIES and OPTIONSI will list some brief notes below, but I find that e-bay's picture system will not allow me to post a picture with enough resolution to be useful. There were many versions of these meters with many small differences among them - I simply don't have the resources or time to do justice to these meters.I regemend the website Simpson260 dot ge - there is more information there than I could possibly determine on my own, and it would be pointless to duplicate this information. (with permission, and citing the source.) E-bay rules prohibit me from including a link to the site, but I don't believe there is any rule prohibiting me from telling you about this site. This is an excellent resource for Simpson information. (I am not affiliated with this site in any way.) This site has all you ever wanted or needed to know about these great meters, as well as similar meters from Simpson, such as the 250, 270, etc.My brief notes, obtained from reading Simpson manuals and advertisements, as well as my own observations of equipment I own or have used:The model 260 has been around for over 50 years, and it has changed with time. Each new version is called a "series." The first two series were not labeled, but beginning with the third version, the series of the meter was printed on the meter face. Options, such as meter protection or a mirrored scale, are indicated by an option suffix.M - mirrored scaleP - protectionFor example, a "series 6P" is the 6th version of the Simpson meter, with protection option. a "6PM" will have a mirrored scale and protection. Both of these options were not available on all versions, and some versions have them by default, so the code is not there. Series 1: This is the first Simpson 260. Unlike the later models, this one has a flat metal front panel, that sets inside a slightly rounded, plastic case.Series 2: These are the first meters with the classic "Simpson shape." The front case is now rounded and made of plastic, and the rear case is slightly more rounded than that of the Series 1. These meters had an internal plastic holder with several gepartments to hold an individual geponent. These older meters are almost works of art. The problem is, these used the older type meter movement that is more fragile. Finding one with a good movement is rare. This meter takes the smaller "pin type" test leads. Mirror scale is not available.Series 3: These are the first meters with "series x" printed on the faceplate. The faceplate of the meter is changed slightly from that of the series 2. These use the slightly tougher taut band movement. This is the first meter to use the "banana type"connectors for the test leads.Series 4: This is a somewhat more rare series then the series 3.Series 5: This series isn't as rare as the series 4, but the series 4 and 5 don't seem to be as gemon as the series 3 and 6.Series 6: This is the first version with the external battery door.Series 6XL and 6XLP: These are newer meters with more features. The case is different - it's not as rounded, and it's made of a different plastic. Instead of the painted, engraved markings, a plastic decal is used on the front. Many consider these to be the "best Simpsons."Series 7: First series to use the shielded "reverse banana" connectors for the test leads.Series 8: Series 8xi: This meter has the less rounded, square case of the 6XL and 6XLP, but is yellow in color and intended for industrial applications.Series 9: Latest industrial meter. CASES: 1. Simple type: This is simply a rectangular bag to hold the meter and test leads. You have to take the meter out of the case to use it. It does protect the meter during storage or transportation, but the meter is not protected during use. You have to set the case somewhere while you are using the meter.2. Snap-front type: This type has a front that can be unsnapped, or simply "turned away" to reveal the meter. This offers protection to the meter during use, and during transport.3. Roll-Top: This is a hard shell case with a roll cover that opens like a roll-top desk. These are easy to use, and protect the meter well. Be sure to get the newer type with the plugs that can be removed to access the meter's case screws. The other type requires the whole roll top case to be disassembled in order to remove the back from the meter to change the batteries.